Meet your Monger: Leah

What brought you to the France 44 Cheese Shop?

I’ve been working at France 44 for about a year now. When I moved to Minneapolis, I was looking for a job and was open to all kinds of opportunities. I heard that there was a cheesemonger role open at France 44 and had to learn more - it was so intriguing that I could be a cheesemonger! And the rest is history.

What have you learned working as a monger?

So my background in food is mainly just eating a lot of it — this is my first actual job in food. I used to be just a sharp cheddar from the grocery store kind of person. And there’s nothing wrong with that, but I’ve gotten to try and learn about so much more here. I’ve learned about cheese styles from around the world, and could never go back to just eating grocery store cheeses. My favorite at the moment is Vallee Brebidoux, an organic sheep’s milk cheese from France. It’s got a hint of funkiness, a nice texture, and the right amount of tang. Perfect for snacking.

Speaking of favorites, what is your favorite France 44 sandwich?

I’m a vegetarian, so I haven’t had them all, but I love the mozz melt. For all the vegetarians out there: I make the best veggie surprise sandwich. My ideal would be: avocado, our house portobello bacon, mayo, Sriracha, onion, jalapeño, and a thick chunk of house mozz.

How do you spend your time outside of work?

I have a music production hobby, I like to make electronic music on my laptop. I read the news a lot, always have my face in an article. And of course like any Minneapolis resident, I love to bike around the lakes in the summer!

So you’re fairly new to Minneapolis, what are some of your favorite finds so far?

I was lucky to land in the Uptown area, and I really love it. It’s got the best of both worlds, nestled between the shops and restaurants on Lyndale, the Walker/Sculpture Garden, and the lakes!

What’s something that would surprise us about you?

I have hiked part of the Appalachian Trail! I hiked it for a month with my girlfriend, until we had to leave the trail in Massachusetts because of an injury. But it was an incredible experience, I learned that I am capable of so much more than I had thought, and I can’t wait to finish the trail someday.

Benjamin and Peter Go To Spain

 After 20 years in the specialty food business, Spain was my white whale. Ever since spending a few days in Barcelona 25 years ago, I knew I wanted to return to Spain to explore the food culture and visit some of our producers.

And so it was a lucky day when our friends at Rogers Collection emailed to invite Peter and I on a tour of three of their producers—one cheesemaker and two olive oil makers. Look, I’m not going to sugar coat this, we have the best work travel assignments here at France 44. Vineyards, farms, dairies, olive groves, cheese festivals and so on.  Sometimes I pinch myself.

Do you want to come to my house and view my slideshow? That might bore you to tears or send you spiraling into a jealous rage. In lieu of that, here are the highlights, in listicle format, so that we keep this snappy.

1.     Top of the list is eating the most incredible paella (prepared by a 91 year old of course) in the garden of producer of Blevis de Navas olive oil. To say the view was spectacular is underselling it a little bit. The 360 view included a national park, a glimpse of Morocco, and of course the olive groves.

Lunch with a view

Look at those crustaceans!

2.     A farmhouse stay at Finca Pasculeta was one of a kind. This 1000-year-old farmhouse in Extremadura is steeped in a history that our American brains can’t comprehend. Our affable host Juan Figueroa takes such incredible pride in his family’s history and in their remarkable cheesemaking accomplishments. If you haven’t checked out their retorta cheese you are missing out on one of the best cheeses in the world.

Sunset from a 1000 year old Spanish farmhouse

3.     During our stroll through the sprawling olive groves of Marques de Valdueza our host insisted that we climb up the transmission towers for the power lines. From there we were able to take in the full breadth of the Extremadura countryside. Don’t sleep on the heather honey that they produce in addition to their olive oil. It’s one of the most delicious honeys we stock in the shop.

Peter climbing up for the view

After our producer trip Peter and I spent a day together at the Salon Gourmet food show in Madrid. Did we need to try to 20 different kinds of jamon iberico? It’s a tough job but someone had to do it. If you dream of tinned fish and piquillo peppers like I do then this is the food show for you.

Need more inspiration? Holler at us and we’ll be happy to talk your ear off.

Cravero Parmigiano-Reggiano & Matic Mea Rosé Pet Nat

 Why we love the cheese 

This is real-deal, cream of the crop Parmigiano-Reggiano. Giorgio Cravero’s masterfully aged Parmigiano wheels are full of crunchy crystals and perfectly balanced between sweet notes and nuttiness. If a Parmigiano-Reggiano ever proved it deserves a place on your cheeseboard, it’s this one.  

Why we love the wine 

Lightly bubbly, this unfiltered, new-wave Slovenian rosé hits all the high notes. Refreshing, delicious and intriguing, Matic Mea Rosé Pet Nat is an excellent pairing partner. This Pét-Nat has all the fizziness and fun to make it a perfect wine to ring in the warmer weather.  

Why we love the pairing 

Parm and bubbles are truly besties. The lightly fizzy nature of the Mea balances the cheese's richness and allows the crystals in the cheese to shine. Both the wine and cheese bring out each other's fruity notes, making this pairing fresh, bright, and perfect for spring and summer.  

What else you should do with it  

Go for a spring pesto, using pistachios, parm, and a little drizzle of balsamic vinegar and olive oil. You can include garlic and herbs if you like or keep it simple. Enjoy the pesto on pasta, toast, or chicken and (finally) enjoy dinner outside with a bottle of the Mea rosé.  

Meet your Monger: Rachel!

How’d you find your way to France 44? How long have you worked here?

I have been working here at France 44 for about two months. I have a background in food & beverage — I worked for 2 ½ years at Culver’s, 1 ½ years at Caribou, and 2 years at Starbucks, and was looking for a new job in the industry. I was searching for jobs and came across the Cheese Monger title, and the environment seemed really welcoming. My dad traveled for work when I was younger and would always bring foods home from around the world, especially cheese, for us to try. I knew that I would have the opportunity to taste new cheeses and learn in this job, so I knew I had to take it.

What’s your go to cheese?

I’ve been taking home a lot of the house mozzarella, I love to use it in caprese salads.

Go to Sando?

Prosciutto di Parma for sure.

What do you like to do when you’re not at work?

I love to spend time with my cat, Gideon and play card games with my sister. Our favorite is Three Thirteen.

What is something that would surprise us about you?

I live with nine other people!

Favorite meal you’ve eaten lately? And what’s your dream meal?

I made a great Spam Musubi recently! My dream meal would be an all-you-can-eat sushi, somewhere with super fresh fish, especially salmon.

Cook Like a Monger: Pickled Royal Corona Beans

by Anna Glassman-Kaufman

Beans are having a moment this spring. Rancho Gordo beans are truly something special, somewhat of a staff obsession - and their Royal Corona Beans are a personal fav. These beans have a thick skin and a creamy body. They’re giant and have an incredibly satisfying bite. My favorite preparation lately has been to pickle the beans, with a simple brine and whatever other vegetables I find in my fridge. If you don’t have the Royal Corona Beans, any other white or red bean will work well!

If you haven’t cooked dried beans before, don’t be intimidated! It’s TRULY easy, and makes a world of difference in flavor and texture when compared to canned beans.

1 cup dried beans

1 medium leek

1 medium carrot

A few sprigs fresh thyme, oregano, or rosemary

1 ¼ cups white vinegar

1 ¼ cups water

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon sugar

To cook the beans, rinse them well in a sieve to clean. Then, cover the beans with about three inches of water in a small pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer and cook covered for about two hours, until beans are cooked through but hold together. Strain out the remaining water and rinse under clean cold water. Set aside.

Use a vegetable peeler to peel the carrot and slice into thin ribbons (a mandolin works here too). Slice the leek in half lengthwise, then wash well and slice in thin half-moons, starting about ½ inch from the roots, and up until the leek is bright green and becomes difficult to cut. Place the carrot and leek into glass or metal bowl and add your sprigs of fresh herbs and your beans.

In a small pot, bring the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt to a boil until the sugar and salt completely dissolve. Pour this brine over your beans, vegetables and herbs. Once cooled, place in the fridge for at least four hours before enjoying.

Enjoy on toast, as a part of your cheese/charcuterie board, or my favorite way, with a spoon right out of the bowl.

Cook Like a Cheesemonger: Cheeseboard Dinner

by Maura Rice

One of the things you hear most as a cheesemonger is something along the lines of: “OHMAHGERD, you’re so lucky, you must eat cheese all the time!” And while it’s true that we do sample our wares behind the counter from time to time (it is our professional obligation, after all), most cheesemongers I know… don’t actually eat that much cheese at home. I know! I know! Stay with me here.

They say that most chefs don’t spend more than five minutes cooking for themselves at home. It seems to me that the same goes for cheesemongers. If I do eat cheese at home, it’s 100% going to be a utensil-free, hand-to-mouth situation. Lately however, I’ve been thinking—I’ve made countless cheeseboards for family and friends over the years (it is, without a doubt, the coolest part about being a cheesemonger), but I’ve never extended the same luxury to myself.

If it were 2015, this post would undoubtedly be titled #treatyoself. Thankfully it’s not, and as mature adults we can appreciate the importance of self care, which in this case looks like making yourself a kick**s cheeseboard for dinner.

“Recipe” (feeds 1-???)

3 cheeses (The traditional school of thought says that you need a cow, a sheep, and a goat cheese—personally, I say choose what you like. In this case that was: Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Camembert dell’Alta Langa, and Blakesville Sunny Ridge. 2-4 oz per person is a good rule.)

Something sweet (Fresh fruit, dried fruit, chocolate, honey, jams—all good options)

Something sour (Pickles are great on cheese and charcuterie boards alike. The acid cuts through the rich, fatty flavors of meat and cheese. It’s like a breath of fresh air for your palate.)

Something salty (Salami, prosciutto, nuts, you get it)

Garnish (Garnishing is my favorite part of building a cheeseboard. It brings an often beige plate to life, providing important contrast, and generally making you look like you know what you’re doing. Any greenery goes a long way—try to fill in gaps in your composition. Blueberries and dried fruit are also great for this purpose.)

Composition:

Creating a cheese or charcuterie board is all about balance and contrast. As a general rule, I try to repeat colors or elements more than once, but no more than three times (see: blueberries, cornichons, strawberries, etc). This creates a balanced effect without looking like a garnish explosion happened on the board. Use large pieces like your cheese wedges to anchor the smaller elements. Try to have some extreme dark (jam, dried figs, blueberries) and light (cheese!) shades going on.

Importantly: when it comes to entertaining, show your guests how to consume the board. Cut large hunks into wedges or slices, stick a knife in large hunks of cheese, pour jam right on the board—diners are often timid about these things, so give them an excuse to dive in and get messy.

Lastly, know that there is no wrong answer when it comes to building a cheeseboard. Let your intuition and creativity guide you. I’ve seen cheez-its, kimchi, and jalapeños used on cheeseboards to great effect. Who’s to say that Spam, Oreos, and dragonfruit wouldn’t be fabulous in the right context? (And if you do make a board with these elements, PLEASE tag us.) Happy building–and more importantly, happy eating!

Lunch with a Cheese Maker

Austin Coe Butler

For this year’s batch selection of Pleasant Ridge Reserve we decided to do something different. Typically in the spring, we drive down to Dodgeville, WI, to visit Andy and his team at Uplands Cheese Co. and sample six to eight days’s batches of Pleasant Ridge Reserve in the creamery before selecting our two favorites to sell throughout the year. It’s important to do batch selection not only because of how important this cheese is to our shop as a best seller, but because of how this cheese is inspired by alpage cheeses where cows graze on diverse pastures making each day’s cheese taste different. This year, with the creation of our new Events Space, we wanted to invite Andy to see the place, and open up batch selection to you, our customers, to get a look behind the scenes, meet Andy, and, of course, enjoy a lunch of Pleasant Ridge.

A few weeks ago, Andy and his head cheesemaker, Eric, (who Andy claims makes more Pleasant Ridge than he does!) made the drive from Dodgeville to Minneapolis. After a long, early morning drive, we made sure to get a few cups of coffee in them while we gave them the grand tour of the gorgeous new Events Space. The staff were busy preparing the buffet for lunch—potatoes au gratin with Pleasant Ridge, our house-made brats in sauerkraut, broccoli covered in melted Pleasant Ridge, and Baker’s Field bread hot from the oven. Soon customers were filing in, grabbing a plate, and taking a seat. After some introductory words by Benjamin, Andy was up in front of the crowd.

Despite his humble, soft-spoken demeanor, Andy is a commanding speaker. He speaks honestly and eloquently about cheesemaking with great charisma, emphasizing that while it’s hard work, rife with many challenges for the dwindling number of American artisan producers, the results are worth the effort. Not just for the taste and texture of the cheese, but also for the health of the cows, the community, and the environment. We had some great audience member questions—shout out to those of you asking about pasturage, breeds, and other ag related questions, cheesemakers love nerding out over that kind of stuff!

After lunch, we tasted six different batches of Pleasant Ridge Reserve side-by-side: May 23rd, 24th, 29th, June 5th, 6th, and 19th. What’s unique about this experience is that it’s one of the best ways to really appreciate the differences in this cheese. It’s like drinking several vintages of the same wine one after another, except with cheese every day is a vintage! The room fell silent as we nibbled on the cheeses, scribbling notes, talking amongst our respective tables and huddles as each person voted for their top two batches. The ballots were collected and in the last few minutes we had our tally to announce our two winners!

There was an anxious excitement at first—what if we disagreed with our customers over what was good and what wasn’t? But luckily, our staff and customers were in agreement with an overwhelming consensus.The winners were May 23rd and May 29th, two very different batches of cheese! May 23rd has a bright, yogurty tang to it, with a moist, juicy texture, while May 29th was drier and firmer, with a complex meaty note that reminds us of cured meats, like prosciutto. We have to take into account how these wheels of cheese will age over time, and our batches tend to last through the summer for the first batch, and then through the Holidays for the second batch, so it’s critical we get this right! We’ll be starting with our May 29th batch as it’s the most flavorful right now and the May 23rd batch has better aging potential.

Later that evening, some of the staff met up with Andy and Eric at the Bull’s Horn for some beers, cheese curds, and to catch up on the season. Andy is a talented musician, so he couldn’t pass up the chance to go see one of our staff members playing that night at Turf Club. She gave Uplands a shout out on stage!

Andy and Eric were incredibly gracious with their time, and we can’t thank them enough for how much this relationship means to the shop. Pleasant Ridge Reserve is a special cheese for us. It’s been in our case since our doors opened. We’d also like to thank those of you who attended our batch selection this year and made it such a memorable occasion and success!

To celebrate, we’ll be sampling our May 29th batch all weekend long, so stop in to try it and take a wedge home!

Meet your Monger: Lauren

How’d you find your way to France 44?

I was in the market for a new job after working in corporate for a while. I saw the title of “cheese monger” online while searching. It seemed super exciting. While I had worked in corporate for a long time, my first job and first love was in restaurants, so I decided to apply and now here I am!

What is your role here and what do you love about it?

Part of the fun of being a Cheesemonger here at France 44 is that we’re always moving around, helping out in different parts of the business. I work on the line making sandwiches, behind the cheese counter, help customers find what they’re looking for… It’s a very well oiled machine but it always stays interesting!

What’s your go-to cheese at the moment?

It would have to be Brabrander. It’s a goat milk gouda, so it combines two of my favorites.

Favorite sandwich?

To make: The Grinder.

To eat: Mozz Melt.

What’s something we wouldn’t know about you?

I have a 5 year old son, and he LOVES blue cheese. Eats it with a spoon.

How do you like to spend your time outside of work?

I mainly love to spend time with my family and check out breweries around the Twin Cities with our friends. It’s special to get time all together since we have such different schedules, so we always make the most of it.

What’s the best meal you’ve eaten recently?

For a recent birthday dinner, I went to both Martina and Rosalia in the same evening. Most notably, we had a salmon appetizer at Rosalia that was divine, I was really blown away by it.

Cook Like a Monger: Coconut Coriander Pasta with KariKari Chili Crisp

by Austin Coe Butler 

If you’re ever wondering what to gift the foodie in your life, may I suggest a subscription service of a gustatory nature? I’ve been gifted bean club memberships, artisanal salami subscriptions, and monthly coffee shipments, all to my great delight and surprise. They’re a great way to be exposed to new and different foods you may not have encountered in your well-worn eating habits. Most recently I was gifted a subscription to Sfoglini, a New York-based pasta manufacturer that is best known for inventing a “new” pasta shape, cascateli or waterfalls. A recipe for pasta with a coconut coriander sauce came along with that month’s pasta and I thought I’d give it a try. While the dish turned out beautiful and quite tasty, I couldn’t help but feel like something was missing, and it was only the other night when the spring weather stirred me to make it again that I realized what it needed to shine: the sweet, garlic-y heat of chili crisp oil. 

Chili crisps are “having a moment.” For the uninitiated, chili crisp usually refers to hot oil that is poured over chilis with other spices and aromatics to create a silken, fiery red oil that is good on literally everything. It’s the Sriracha of the 2020s. The Chinese Lao Gan Ma brand, with a stern looking woman on the front, exploded in popularity several years ago, and now it seems like everyone and their mother is making artisanal chili crisp. The Pura Macha brand salsa macha we sell in the shop, a Mexican chili crisp with lots of smoky guajillos, chipotles, nuts, coffee, and fruit, is exceptional and can turn something as plain as steamed chicken breast into a transcendent culinary experience. 

We recently brought a new chili crisp into the shop, Seattle-based KariKari, a Japanese-style chili crisp. What sets KariKari apart is that it is packed with golden slices of crispy fried shallots and garlic, which most chili crisps tragically skimp on. Many of the staff members, including yours truly, will openly admit to eating half a jar of it in one sitting, whether it’s paired with a cheese like Manchego, a decadent triple creme like Brillat Savarin, or just on plain noodles or a baguette. This chili crisp was what that pasta dish needed, and it totally transformed it, bringing all the flavors into balance with its sweet heat and leaving me craving more. KariKari chili crisp is on promotion this weekend, so stop into the shop to try it for yourself!

This pasta is an easy weeknight meal and can easily be made vegan with the substitution of coconut oil for butter.

Ingredients:

1 ½ tbsp coriander, toasted, and ground

4 tbsp unsalted butter

½ lb. or 8 oz. spinach

1 cup fresh or frozen peas

1 large yellow onion, sliced thinly

6 cloves garlic, minced or grated

1 lb. package of pasta, preferably a shape like rigatoni, busiate, or penne. I use cavatappi here.

1 in. knob ginger, minced or grated

1 14 oz. can unsweetened coconut milk

Cilantro leaves to taste

KariKari chili crisp to taste

Directions:

1. Bring a large pot of abundantly salted water to a boil while you prepare your mise.

2. In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the spinach and saute for just a minute or two until it begins to wilt. Then add the peas and heat them through, just another minute or two. Reserve the peas and spinach in a small bowl.

3. In the same pot, add the remaining butter. Saute the onion until translucent and yielding, about 5 to 7 minutes. You’re not looking to develop any color, just soften the onions.

4. Add the ground coriander and bloom the spices until fragrant, about a minute.

5. Add the garlic and ginger and saute for another minute. Your kitchen should now smell amazing.

6. Finally, add the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the sauce while you cook your pasta.

7. Cook the pasta until 2 to 3 minutes before the time listed for al dente according to the package. My package of cavatappi said 9 minutes, so I removed the pasta at 6 minutes. The pasta will still be raw in the middle, but we’ll finish cooking it in the sauce so the flavors can marry.

8. Add the pasta to the Dutch oven with the sauce along with a ladle of pasta water. Continue to stir the pasta and test it until it is cooked al dente or to your liking. A nice sauce should have formed in the pot from the addition of the starchy, salty pasta water. If it looks dry, add a half ladle of pasta water at a time. If it looks too watery, allow the sauce to reduce for a minute or two. Check for seasoning one last time, adjusting the salt as necessary.

9. Serve, garnishing generously with cilantro, and a generous spoonful of two of glowing KariKari Chili Crisp.

Meet your Monger: Nora

We’re so glad you joined the staff at France 44. What has been something that’s surprised you here?

I’m glad to be here! I've been most surprised by the sheer size of the operation--and how many items are produced in-house.

What does your life look like outside of work? How do you enjoy spending your time?

Outside of work I dig into other projects, make rugs, try out new restaurants, shop vintage, and re-watch episodes of Degrassi.

What’s your favorite France 44 Sando or Salad?

Can’t go wrong with the Tuna Báhn Mi.

You’ve worked previously in media and publishing; what other ways do you express your creative self?

I try to keep my toe in the business with freelance editing gigs, but rugging and sketching have scratched the creative itch. I'm currently looking to get back into the ceramics scene.

Pineapple on pizza?

Who am I to stop you?

What’s your favorite Twin Cities restaurant, or your go-to spot?

Big question, I'll answer in a list: Lepot, Quang, Sooki & Mimi (basement bar), Reverie, Victor's, Black Sea...

Is there a cheese we carry that has blown you away?

The Alex.

Do you have a favorite retail item?

Brown butter crispy, hands down.