The Pairing Week 16: Camembert + Pallus Messanges Rouge

For this week’s pairing, we continue on our journey through France, this time landing on an organic farm just 35 miles southwest of Paris named, Ferme de la Tremblaye. Since 1967 this dairy farm has been working towards becoming their ideal model of sustainable agriculture; one that mimics the rich, lush soils of the nearby Rambouillet forest by encouraging plant and animal biodiversity, meanwhile minimizing their carbon footprint and eliminating demand for outside resources along the way. Combining modern soil management strategy and farming techniques with traditional methods of cheesemaking has proven successful for this dairy business in its effort to produce the highest quality farmstead cheeses. Their herd of 150 cows and 350 goats supplies milk for production of both soft-ripened, bloomy rind cheeses and blue cheeses. This week we’ve chosen their cow’s milk Camembert for our pairing selection. Made with nothing more than pasteurized whole cow’s milk, cultures, natural rennet, and salt, this cheese is the the best version of a french Camembert available to us here in the U.S. When tasting this cheese, early notes of cooked egg yolk and toasted garlic gradually develop into more of an earthy, mushroomy, damp wood aroma and flavor. The cheese is fudgy, salty and creamy, and tastes like the farm — in the best way possible. We’ve paired this perfectly ripe Camembert with a Chinon from Domaine de Pallus Winery, located in the central Loire Valley, along the northern edge of the Vienne river just southwest from Tours. Following a similar approach and care for his soil, Bertrand Sourdais, the winery’s 5th generation winemaker closely monitors the rhythms of his vineyard in his attempt to produce the best grapes possible. We found the wine’s juicy bubblegum fruit, generous acid, and lightly structured tannins complementary towards the cheese and its heady posture. The wine gently tames the cheese’s pungent bite, while the cheese reveals leafy green notes within the grape, bringing on new levels of complexity.

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