The Pairing: 1655 Gruyere

Ask any cheesemonger, one of the most common questions we receive is, “what are you excited about right now?” We appreciate this approach, for it carves out space ideal for sharing knowledge and reinforcing our skills. But remember this: cheesemongers play favorites, just like you and me. Sure, we get super excited every time a yummy cheese hits the case, but we don’t forget the pillars of the case that are always there for us. For this week’s pairing, we’re highlighting one of those good old standby cheeses; one that always tastes delicious, was likely mentioned in a recipe you recently perused, and one you’ll find in our case all year long. Gruyère. Outside of a few seasonal Gruyère offerings that delight us once or twice a year, our workhorse Gruyère is named after the year of its first known written existence, 1655. Produced in a small dairy on the outskirts of the medieval village of Gruyère, about 30 minutes southwest of Fribourg, Switzerland, cheesemaker Jean-Marie Dunand is committed to producing the highest quality Gruyère, with precision. With only the finest milk available to him, Dunand does what he always has, transforming milk into gold. After their creation, his cheeses are aged for 3 months at the dairy, before heading north to Fromage Gruyère SA, the smallest public affineur in the region, and the only remaining affineur in Fribourg, the birthplace of Gruyère. The affineurs of Fromage Gruyère seek out only the best quality cheeses to age in their cellars, and ultimately name, 1655. Our wheels of 1655 arrive to us at around 12-14 months of age. The cheeses paste is springy and pliable to the touch, yet creamy and fudge-like on the chew. Early notes of green pasture and roasted hazelnuts give way to garlic and spring onions sautéed in butter, mixed with heavy cream, leaving you with only the slightest thought of barnyard. We were delighted to pair this European mountain classic with a red blend from Red Tail Ridge Winery, located on the northern shore of Lake Keuka, in the Finger Lakes region of New York. A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Franc and Blaufränkish, their “Frost Smoke” blend marries perfectly with this cheese. With notes of blackberry pie and ripe dates, the wine’s mid-range tannins don’t interfere with the cheese, but support its body. Meanwhile, the rich milk balances the grapes, creating a smooth mouthfeel that leaves you refreshed and wanting more.

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