ACS Award Winners Pt. 1: Blakesville Creamery

by Austin Coe Butler

Now that both the American Cheese Society (ACS) Judging and Competition in Minneapolis and ACS Conference in Des Moines have passed, we know the winners of this year’s coveted ACS awards. To our delight, we carry many of these cheeses, so for the next month we’ll be promoting ACS award winning producers and the cheeses they make, celebrating one maker each week. First up, Blakesville Creamery in Port Washington, WI, who won big in the following categories:

Linedeline – 1st place – Soft Ripened Cheeses made from Goat’s Milk

Shabby Shoes – 1st place – Goat’s Milk Cheese aged 31 to 60 days

St. Germain – 1st place – Goat’s Milk Cheeses aged over 60 days

Sunny Ridge – 2nd place – Washed Rind Cheeses made from Goat’s Milk

Blakesville is led by head cheesemaker Veronica Pedraza alongside their dedicated team of cheesemakers and farmers. Veronica, who may have the best laugh of anyone in the cheese business, has an impressive career in cheese-making, working at Sweet Grass Dairy, Jasper Hill, and Meadowood Farm before leading Blakesville. There’s a playfulness in the cheeses reflected in the names—Shabby Shoes being a play on the French Chabichou; Linedeline, a sly reference to the beguiling pronunciation of Lynde Uihlein’s, Blakesville’s owner, first name (pronounced Line-DAH-line not Lin-DAH-line); and Holiday Cheer, a nod to the Wisconsin brandy Old Fashioned). Recently, Alisha Norris Jones, the mind behind of the inimitable Immortal Milk, creator of edible art installations, joined the Blakesville crew as Sales Manager, and the energy at Blakesville has never been more “chaotic good.”

Blakesville makes an impressive array of cheeses for a young creamery, including everything from fresh chèvre to aged blues, melty goatclette (goat raclette) to Basque-style tommes. Their catalogue only continues to grow, and last year they not only introduced two holiday releases, Holiday Cheer and Truffle Shuffle, but also our summer favorite, a Croatian inspired Grillin’ Cheese that we’ve washed in Dampfwerk’s Barrel Aged Gin. Only a few months ago, Veronica began receiving sheep’s milk from the folks at Ms. J & Co. and is already making two incredible new cheeses, Pecuri in vigne, a leaf-wrapped brebis soaked in Corsican muscat, and Llanes, a large bloomy-rinded sheep’s milk cheese. Veronica always has some experiment in the works (most recently it was an ill-starred goat’s milk torta style cheese) promising more delicious things to come. At the 2022 ACS Conference, Blakesville’s debut in the awards, they took home five! 

Blakesville has something for every cheese lover, whether you like goat cheese or not! St. Germain and Linedeline promise to be gentle forays to the word of goat cheese, while for the bonafide capriphiles can exalt in the billy goat funk of Sunny Ridge and Shabby Shoes. Come into the shop this week to taste what makes these cheeses award winning!

Meet Your Monger: Ellory

What brought you to the France 44 Cheese Shop?

I am originally from Texas, and over the last few years I’ve visited a friend in St. Paul a few times. Every time I visited, we went to the St. Paul Meat & Cheese shops for sandwiches. I decided that I wanted to relocate to the Twin Cities after college and I checked out the St. Paul stores to see if they had any interesting openings. I saw the opening for a cheesemonger at France 44 Cheese Shop and it seemed perfect! Everything happened really fast and I started my job here less than a week after my move.

What have you learned so far at the France 44 Cheese Shop?

I’m surprised how quickly I was able to memorize our menu and learn all of the sandwich and salad ingredients. But more than that, I’m learning how to pair meats with cheeses and craft new flavor combinations. I also really enjoy making the cheese boards that folks can order in the shop; putting them together is very interesting.

Fav cheeses?

I love the Double Cream Brie, and tried the Challerhocker this week which became another favorite.

Fav Sando?

It’s a toss up between the Sweet Chorizo and the Prosciutto di Parma.

What do you like to do when you’re not at France 44?

I am a fellow at the Minnesota Center for Book Arts. I studied print making in college and because I often work the closing shift here, I go there in the mornings and work on print making as often as I can.

Is there anything else you want the world to know?

Next time you’re here, order the tiramisu. Just do it.

Ratatouille with Creamy Polenta

by Anna Glassman-Kaufman

No doubt you’ve seen the EXCELLENT movie, Ratatouille, about a little rat in Paris who just wanted to cook. The movie ends with beautiful plate of, you guessed it, ratatouille. If you haven’t seen the movie, go watch it tonight. You’re never too old for Pixar. And speaking of Ratatouille, August is peak ratatouille season. The most beautiful and flavorful tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and zucchini are ripening and abundantly available at local markets, and this epic French dish ties them all together perfectly.

There are two ways to make ratatouille: you can cook the vegetables separately, then together, to form a cohesive sauce. OR, you can beautifully slice each of the vegetables, and arrange them in a baking dish over a light tomato-pepper sauce, alternating slices for a show-stopping look, then bake. And when do we ever take the easy way out? We’re going for a showstopper! Don’t be intimidated, though, it’s truly an easy dish that lets the ingredients shine, and is great to make in advance if you’re hosting a crowd for dinner. Ratatouille can be served right out of the oven or at room temperature.

Now for the polenta, one of my favorite Italian foods. Polenta is a cornmeal porridge from the north of Italy, up in the Alps. One of the most memorable meals of my life was at a trattoria in a tiny Alpine town of Alagna Valsesia, where after some of the best charcuterie I’ve tried, and of course a lot of red wine, our main course consisted of a huge pot of the cheesiest polenta I’ve ever seen, placed in the middle of the table to be served family style. The simplicity of the dish, paired with the insane mountain views to our side, made for the perfect evening. Though that polenta was served on its own, polenta (or cheesy polenta!) is often topped with various meat and vegetable stews, and polenta is the perfect base for ratatouille because the porridge soaks up the sauce and provides a little more substance to the meal, without overpowering the flavors that the vegetables bring to the dish. I used Brabander cheese in my polenta. Brabander is a goat’s milk gouda made by Fromagerie L’amuse. The cheese melts beautifully and offers a light nutty flavor and richness to the polenta, without overpowering any of the other flavors in the dish. We also just got in some new Caciocavallo cheese from Puglia, Italy. Caciocavallo is similar to provolone and would also melt beautifully into polenta, for a slightly milder flavor.

Last note before we start: this dish gives you the perfect opportunity to go to your local farmers market this weekend! Minnesota farms grow some of the best produce around, and there’s nothing more therapeutic than a morning spent at the farmers market, admiring the buckets of cucumbers, bouquets of squash blossoms, and bundles of bok choy that line the tents. A few market recs: St. Paul Farmer’s Market (Sat & Sun, 7am-1pm) is hyper local, requiring that every vendor grow and process their products within 100 miles of the market. And for a smaller neighborhood market, Kingfield Market (Sundays, 8:30am-1pm) offers a unique selection of produce, honey, and crafts.

INGREDIENTS:

Vegetables:

1 zucchini, sliced in ⅛ inch rounds

1 yellow squash, sliced in ⅛ inch rounds

2 Italian eggplants - smaller, thinner eggplants are best here, sliced in ⅛ inch rounds

4 ripe roma tomatoes, sliced in ⅛ inch rounds

2 tablespoons EVOO

1 large bunch of basil

Sauce:

2 tablespoons EVOO

1 small yellow onion, diced

1 red bell pepper, diced

4 cloves of garlic, diced

2 pints cherry tomatoes, sliced in half (I’m using Sungold, any variety will work well)

½ cup dry white wine (Pinot Grigio works well)

Salt and pepper to taste

Polenta:

1 cup polenta (coarse cornmeal)

5 cups water

1 cup whole milk (some people use all water, some all milk. I think this ratio gives it a nice richness, while keeping a dish light and elegant)

¼ lb grated cheese (we recommend the Brabander for a melty, flavorful cheese that’s not too overpowering. Caciocavallo would work beautifully here too!)

4 tbsp unsalted butter

4 tsp salt

Black pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Lay out your sliced zucchini, yellow squash, and eggplant on a sheet pan and lightly salt each side. This will bring out the moisture in the vegetables. Let rest about 10 minutes, then dab dry with a towel.

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and peppers. Cover until the vegetables begin to sweat, and cook on low heat until soft. Then add garlic, salt and pepper. After about 30 seconds, add the cherry tomatoes, Cook, stirring regularly for 2-3 minutes, then add the white wine, turn heat to simmer, and cover for 5-10 minutes. Lastly, remove the lid, turn heat to medium, and cook the sauce to evaporate some of the wine and thicken. Using the back of a wooden spoon, lightly smash the vegetables against the side of the pot to bring the sauce together, but leave some chunks for texture.

When your sauce is finished, pour It into the bottom of a 9x13 baking pan. Start to line up your vegetables atop your sauce, alternating zucchini, squash, eggplant, tomato, and basil leaves until the pan is filled. Cover with tin foil and bake about 45 minutes, then remove foil and continue to cook for another 30-40 minutes until some of the excess liquid cooks off.

When you take off the foil, it’s time to start the polenta. Bring your water and milk to a boil over high heat in a large pot. Reduce heat to medium. Gradually, begin to add in the polenta, whisking constantly. Once you’ve added all of the polenta, reduce heat to simmer, cover the pan and cook, continuing to whisk every 5-10 minutes for about 30 minutes, until the polenta is thickened. Remove from the heat and add the grated cheese, salt, and butter. Whisk to combine. Serve immediately, topped with the ratatouille, or if your timing is off/you’re cooking in advance, you can always leave the pot covered and reheat with a little bit more milk to loosen.

Marcel Petite Comté + Mokoroa Txakolina

by Sophia Stern

Why we love the cheese 

One of France’s more popular cheeses, Comté is the perfect table cheese to keep in your pantry (or fridge). Comté has a firm, flexible texture, some crystallization, and a lovely melt-in-your-mouth fudgy quality, rare in harder cheeses. This large-format mountain milk cheese can only be made in the historic and cultural Comté region in eastern France, nestled up against the border of Switzerland. Though similar to Switzerland’s Gruyere, Comté has gentler notes of butter and grass. We carry the Essex Street selection of Marcel Petiet Comté, which champions notes of hazelnuts, fried onion, fresh-cut grass, and spring berries.  

Why we love the wine 

Txakoli (Cha-ko-lee) has been gaining popularity in recent years for good reason. This Basque white wine is super acidic, crisp, and mineral in style and is perfect to cool you down on a humid, hot summer’s day. The Mokoroa winery was founded in 2008 by Jose Antonio Mokoroa and his family. They have 6 hectares of vineyards, all trellised and on slopes, facing the Cantabrian Sea. Between sea breezes and the ancient sea floor making up the vineyard soils, Mokoroa has a distinct saline quality of ocean salt and slate. The wine’s minerality is balanced with tart flavors of pity orange, green stone fruit, and white flowers.  

Why we love the pairing 

Though Comté is milder than its Swiss cousin Gruyère, it's just as rich and delicious. The Mokoroa Txakoli's high acidity handles the cheese's decadence, while not clouding this cream-of-the-crop Comté's nuanced flavor. The wine's tangy notes of stone fruit and white flowers break through the flavors of caramelized onions and hazelnuts in the cheese while being light and bright enough to not drown all the beautiful notes of cultured butter. 

What else you should do with it  

Comté is a wonderful cheese for summer pizza topping! Think summer squash, basil pesto, and Comté. Or go for caramelized onions, arugula, and prosciutto with Comté of course. These non-red sauce pies will pair amazingly with the Mokoroa, which will also keep you cool while monitoring your pizza in the hot oven.  

Let's Go To A Cheese Conference!

by Benjamin Roberts

When I told friends that I was headed to a cheese conference in Des Moines I was besieged by a myriad of questions. What does one do at a cheese conference? Will you just eat cheese the entire time? What kind of people attend a cheese conference?

 

I’ve been slinging cheese for 15 years now and so my sense of what happens at nonfood conferences is pretty limited. I imagine sterile hotel ballrooms overflowing with business casual and PowerPoint presentations packed with bar graphs and bullet points. I also imagine that there is 99% less cheese at these than at the annual American Cheese Society conference.

 

Each summer cheesemakers, wholesalers, and retailers (that’s me!) gather for three days of education, inspiration, and networking. This year folks from all over the country gathered just 3.5 hours south down I-35 in Des Moines, Iowa. My traveling companions for this trip were my two longest tenured employees—our St Paul Director of Operations, Nick, and our Catering and Gifts Director, Carol Ann. Combined, we have a tenure of over 35 years working for France 44.

 

Perhaps you are super curious to hear about buffet line breakfasts and what kind of swag was in our welcome bag. You’ll have to email me separately for those details along with my hot take on the opening keynote speech. Here you will just have to settle for the highlights.

 

1.     The unequivocal best moment of the conference was an educational seminar on coagulants.  Don’t know what a coagulant is? It’s the rennet that turns milk into cheese. Trevor (aka Milk Trekker) was one of the most dynamic and engaging educators I’ve ever listened to. Don’t believe me? Check out his Instagram and prepare to have your mind blown.

2.     Back in May I was a judge (right here in Minneapolis!) for the annual American Cheese Society Judging and Competition. The winners were announced at the conference, and I was honored to attend the ceremony and watch all of these talented and hardworking cheesemakers accept their awards.

3.     Trying all the phenomenal cheese at the Meet the Maker event. Imagine a huge conference room filled with many of the best cheesemakers in the country offering samples of their wares. Our bellies were full by the time we were done making the rounds. There is probably no better event in the country to taste such consistently spectacular cheese.

 

This is all sounds pretty great, right? We’re lucky to exist in a kind, supportive industry that is filled with delicious things to eat. Next year’s conference is in Buffalo, New York in case you were thinking of attending. Maybe we will see you there?

 

Cook Like a Monger: Pasta alla Norma!

by Austin Coe Butler

In 1831 Vincenzo Bellini wrote an opera called Norma, and the name became synonymous with a masterpiece. This dish is called Norma because it’s awesome. An earlier version of pasta alla Norma was called pasta con la melanzane (pasta with eggplant) and was immensely popular in Sicily, particularly in the city of Catania. In honor of Bellini, a native of Catania, the dish was renamed. According to legend, Nino Martoglio, a prominent Sicilian writer, exclaimed while eating this dish, “chista è ‘na vera Norma! (this is a real ‘Norma!’)” 

Norma is the perfect summer dish, evoking the fragrance, freshness, and flavors of the season. The base of the dish revolves around lightly fried eggplants in a fresh tomato sauce—two vegetables that are stubbornly only good for the few fleeting months of the sundrenched summer. If you garden or visit the farmer’s markets, July is the month our first big crop comes in, and the markets finally fill with produce. I have some dark, slender Japanese eggplants and gem-like fairytale eggplants that I harvested and used in this dish. My basil persists on flowering this time of year, so I’m happy to prune it for the sake of this dish.

If you don’t want to fry the eggplant, you can simply cut them in half, place them cut side down on a baking sheet, and place them under the broiler till the skins darken and the flesh steams itself and softens. Scoop the flesh out and add it to the tomato sauce with the wine. 

If you know someone who insists they don’t like eggplant, make this dish for them. They just might exclaim that it is “Norma!”

Ingredients:

1 pack or 500 g of dried pasta, preferably a tubular shape like rigatoni

1 punnet of cherry tomatoes, quartered

2 eggplants, cut into half inch cubes

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 stalks of basil

1 cup of dry white wine, like Sicilian Grillo or Pinot Grigio

Pecorino Romano or Ricotta Salata

EVOO

Oil for frying (I prefer sunflower oil)

  1. Bring a large pot of abundantly salted water to a boil.

  2. Fry the eggplant in your oil of choice at 390º F for 3 to 4 minutes until lightly golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on a plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle the hot eggplant with salt. Cooked this way, the eggplant has a delicate crispness and delectable creaminess and sweetness. I personally like frying in a wok, as the convex shape of the pan allows you to fry more in less oil.

  3. Set a saucier or saucepan over medium heat. Add enough EVOO to cover the bottom of the pan, about four tablespoons or more. Once shimmering, add the garlic and fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and a two-finger pinch of salt. Cover and stir occasionally. The juice from the tomatoes and olive oil will turn opaque, almost creamy. Add one stalk of the basil, whole or with the leaves torn, along with half the fried eggplant and the wine. Simmer for a few more minutes for the wine to reduce.

  4. Cook the pasta. Two minutes before al dente, transfer the pasta to the saucepan along with a ladle of the pasta water. Toss to combine (SPADELLARE!!) until the pasta is cooked through and married with the sauce. Serve immediately on a warm plate and top with the remaining eggplant, a grating of Pecorino Romano, fresh basil torn over it, and a crack of black pepper. Buon appetito!

Cook Like a Monger: Beet Spaghetti

by Austin Coe Butler

The simplicity and flavor of this dish is rivaled only by its immediate visual appeal. Just be sure to wear an apron when making it! It is inspired by a pasta dish created by Avner Lavi at Cento Pasta Bar in Los Angeles. Originally, this dish is made with poppy seeds and ricotta, but over the years I’ve found I prefer to leave the poppy seeds out as I don’t have them around the house and substitute chèvre for ricotta as chèvre and beets are a natural pairing. The sweetness and earthiness of the beet purée is balanced by the acidity of the chèvre and the freshness of the chives, all rounded out with a pleasant, toasty backbone of browned butter.

Serves 2

250 g or 1/2 package of Ma’kaira Chitarra or long pasta like spaghetti

Blakesville Creamery Fresh Chèvre

1 medium red beet

Chives 

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

3 tablespoons butter

Salt and pepper

Roast the beets. Preheat your oven to 400º F. I use this opportunity to roast a whole bunch of beets, as they’re great to have in the kitchen. Top and tail the beets, leaving the skins on. Coat the beets in olive oil and a sprinkle of salt, then wrap each tightly in aluminum foil. Place them on a rimmed baking sheet and cook. Depending on their size, this can take 40 to 60 minutes. Check on them every 20 minutes for doneness, when a knife can go through the beets with little resistance.

Make the beet purée. Once cool to handle, reserve all the beets except one. The wrapped beets can last at least a week in the fridge. Peel the beet. The skin can be removed easily with your fingers or a paper towel. Cube it and place it in a blender. Add a generous pinch of salt, about a teaspoon, and a splash of water before blending for one minute until smooth.

Brown the butter. Brown 3 tablespoons of butter over low to medium heat for about 5 minutes. The butter will pass from a milky yellow color that foams and spits to a clear brown. The milk solids in the butter will caramelize and the butter will take on a pleasant, nutty aroma. 

Finish the sauce. Add the beet purée to the brown butter and stir to combine.

Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta two minutes shy of al dente according to the package instructions. Remove the pasta and add it to the saucepan along with a ladle of the pasta cooking water. Toss to combine and finish cooking.

Garnish. Serve the pasta in a tight bird’s nest by using tongs and a soup ladle. Garnish with a spoonful of chèvre and top with a generous amount of finely sliced chives. Serve immediately.

Cook Like a Monger: Savory Scones

by Anna Glassman-Kaufman

Two scones on a wooden board

We’re back with another baked good this week. These savory scones are the perfect last minute addition to any summer brunch. They come together in about 45 minutes and are a great way to use up any cheese or greens you have in the fridge.

A couple of notes:

Cheese - I love to use something soft and creamy with a little bit of funk, like anything from Alemar Cheese (local!), but any flavorful cheddar or gruyere works well in these as well! Most importantly, you just want a cheese with lots of interesting flavor that will come through in every bite. You don’t want the cheese to get lost behind the herbs. If you go with something softer, be careful to mix the cheese in last and JUST until combined, to keep the chunks of cheese intact. If you go with an aged cheese of any kind, shred the cheese or cut into ¼ inch cubes.  Today, I’m using Bleu Mont Cheddar which is earthy, nutty, and pairs well with the chives in the scone.

Flour - I love to use at least 20% whole wheat flour in anything I bake. Flour is not just an ingredient to hold the rest together, it can add its own depth of flavor and texture, and I want to celebrate it. So we’re using 50% whole wheat flour in these scones. The other half is All-Purpose, and if that’s all you have on hand, certainly feel free to go 100% AP. You just may want to cut back the buttermilk by a tablespoon or two if skipping the whole wheat, as the whole wheat flour tends to absorb a bit more liquid than sifted flour.

Yield: 8-10 scones

Ingredients:

1 Cup All-Purpose Flour

1 Cup Whole Wheat Flour

½ Tsp Baking Soda

½ Tsp Baking Powder

½ Tsp Salt

2 Tbsp Sugar

6 Tbsp Salted Butter, COLD and cubed into ½ inch pieces

½ Cup + 2 Tbsp Buttermilk

1 Egg

3 Tbsp Green Onion or Chive, minced

6 oz cheese, cubed or shredded

2 Tbsp Milk


1. Combine all dry ingredients in a mixing bowl.

2. Add the chunks of cold butter and use your fingers or a dough cutter to cut the butter into the dough, until you have a course meal with some pea sized chunks of butter.

3. Add in your egg, buttermilk herbs and cheese chunks and mix with your hands until the dough just holds together.

4. Wrap in plastic and rest for 5-10 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

5. Drop the dough into 8 equal sized scones. They do not have to be rounded, the uneven edges will give you a crispy exterior when baked.

6. Brush each scone with a little bit of milk and sprinkle with flaky salt.

7. Bake in 400 degree oven for 15-18 minutes until the exterior is golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean.

8. Enjoy while still warm with little bit of extra salted butter!

Cook Like a Monger: Whipped Feta with Chili Crisp & Fried Zucchini

by Anna Glassman-Kaufman


We all know chili crisp is having a moment, and we’ve written about it on this blog before, so I won’t write too much here, but know that the Kari Kari Chili Crisp is the thing you’ve been missing in your kitchen. It makes any mediocre dinner an excellent one, adding not only a bit of heat but also garlicky umami goodness. There’s really no going wrong with this stuff.

Now we bring in the feta. Feta is a sheep’s milk cheese originating in Greece. The curd is salted and dry aged for a brief period before aging in brine, a very salty water solution. It’s highly acidic, so it doesn’t melt as well as other cheeses and is most often served cold or room temperature. But when blended with a bit of brine, feta turns into a silky smooth dip that is the perfect base for any toppings that inspire you, and that’s what we’re doing today.

Alright one final component: the zucchini. I don’t know about you, but my zucchini plants go absolutely crazy sometime around mid-summer and produce more than I could ever imagine eating. So I’m always looking for new ways to use them up because let’s be real, it’s not always the most exciting and flavorful veggie, especially after you accidentally let it grow a day too long and it’s the size of your arm. But if you watched Stanley Tucci’s “Searching for Italy”, you will surely remember the Spaghetti all Nerano he ate in the Calabria episode. The zucchini were sliced thinly and twice fried to bring out all of the sweetness and flavor they have to offer, and that’s what we’re emulating in this recipe. I don’t quite go so far as to deep fry them, but I’ve found that slicing zucchini thinly and shallow frying in olive oil can achieve a texture reminiscent of the one I imagine in this epic pasta dish, and certainly makes them taste delicious.


8 oz Essex Sheep’s Milk Feta

2 tbsp Feta Brine

Zest of One Lemon

1 Medium Zucchini, thinly sliced, lengthwise

1 tbsp Kosher Salt

¼ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 tbsp Kari Kari Chili Crisp

1 tbsp Basil Leaves, julienned

Thinly Sliced and Toasted Bread to dip - I’m using Baker’s Field Table Bread of course


Lay zucchini slices down on a baking pan and salt the surfaces with the 1 tbsp kosher salt. This helps pull excess moisture out of the zucchini. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, blend feta, lemon zest, and brine in a food processor about 3-5 minutes until silky smooth. If it still feels a bit too stiff, add another tablespoon of brine to smooth it out. Spoon the whipped feta onto your serving dish and smooth out surface, creating a shallow well in the center. Refrigerate until ready to assemble and serve.

Use a towel to pat the zucchini dry.

Heat up a sauté pan over medium heat and add ¼ cup olive oil. Wait another minute until the oil is sufficiently hot and begin adding zucchini slices. You will likely need to fry them in several batches. Fry for a couple minutes on each side, until lightly browned and crisp, but not burnt. Then transfer to a clean plate, lightly salt and pepper, and move on to the next round.

When you’ve finished frying and your zucchini has fully cooled, top the plated whipped feta with the zucchini and spoon a tablespoon of Kari Kari Chili Crisp over the top. Lastly, garnish with the julienned basil.

Serve with toasted bread and enjoy!


P.S. for the iconic Spaghetti alla Nerano recipe, look here!

Grayson Returns!

by Austin Coe Butler

Like the vegetable world, cheese, too, follows the seasons. Spring brings the first, fresh cheeses like mushroomy bries with their ramp-like aromas and bone-white chèvres with their bright tang of mint, rhubarb, and radishes. Summer brings with it sweet, milk-laden mozzarella, juicy like a tomato, and the first aged cheeses. Alpines and Cheddars ripen with apples on autumn days, and as the weather cools, the flavors warm. Long winter nights settle in, and the bold, savory melters like Raclette are brought to the fire, truckles of Stilton are cracked open, and decadent, woodsy wheels of spruce-girdled Rush Creek Reserve, Winnimere, and Vacherin Mont d’Or are scooped from their rinds. Some cheeses are ephemeral, having only one season, while others have several. Among the greatest cheeses that follows its own seasons is Grayson.

Grayson is a humble, smear ripened cheese made by Meadow Creek Dairy in Galax, Virginia nestled in the southwestern Appalachian. Its rubrous hue and square shape immediately evoke Taleggio and other smear ripened cheeses. These smear ripened cheeses, soft cheeses that are “washed” in or smeared with a morge or brine, are celebrated for their funky, briny, meaty flavors, and their pungent aromas. There’s a good reason why: bacteria only found in marine environments are inexplicably found on these cheeses, along with various species of Brevibacterium, a genus of bacteria that thrive in damp, salty environments like smear ripened cheeses or… your feet! Grayson has all these flavors in its unique way. It is beefy, barn-yardy, and runny, with some of its best wheels reminding me of heavily larded refried pinto beans. But this is a description of winter Grayson. Summer Grayson is delectably different.

The folks at Meadow Creek Dairy are real American artisans. The Feete family began making cheese in 1998, and ever since then they’ve shown a dedication to their cows and their craft. Their cows are always on pasture, never confined, and they only graze on grass. They follow active grazing practices, rotating the cows from one pasture to the next to avoid overgrazing. Meadow Creek Dairy also keeps a closed herd of Jersey cows bred over the past thirty years specifically for their postage stamp of land in the Virginia highlands. Their cheesemakers work with minutes old milk that comes into the creamery straight from the milking parlor, and they let the raw, Jersey milk shine. All of Meadow Creek’s cheeses have a hallmark, vibrant, beta-carotene rich color from that beautiful milk. Meadow Creek celebrates the seasonal nature of their milk and cheese.

So while winter Grayson is stronger in flavor and softer in texture, summer Grayson is milder, tangier, firmer, and springier. The aroma is subtle, like yeasted bread, or the foamy head of an unfiltered beer. The flavors are bright, salty, and milky, while the paste retains a lovely buoyant bounce in the center and a supple creamline. Because of its milder nature, summer is a great time to try Grayson if you haven’t before or are unfamiliar with smear ripen cheeses. It can be paired alongside crisp whites and medium bodied reds, but it really deserves to be paired alongside a perspiring glass of frothy or Hefeweizen in the summer sun.

There’s always a hiatus with Grayson in the spring. The winter’s batches have been consumed, and while the cows rest and the grass grows, we wait. With the return of Grayson, we know summer has arrived! To celebrate its arrival with summer we’ll be sampling this cheese all weekend long, so stop by the shop to pick up a wedge!

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